“India is the cradle of the human race, the birthplace of human speech, the mother of history, the grandmother of legend, and the great grand mother of tradition. our most valuable and most instructive materials in the history of man are treasured up in India only. – Mark Twain
This quote from Mark Twain is not just another quote for Indians but something which establishes the awesomeness and greatness of their motherland. When we decided to make Central India as our next travel destination, there were many questions : particularly when the journey was planned during the hot and humid months of April, when the journey is bound to happen within the frame of one week which comes exactly in the middle of a one-month family vacation, when the trippers were wife, husband and his friend 🙂 🙂 . But overcoming all the suspected odds, Mr Jack & Mrs Jack completed the journey with lots of love and love.
Camera Details
- Canon 550D
- 18-135mm 3.5f
- 50mm 1.8f
- iPhone 6S
A story from the soulful travelers.
“Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.” – Ibn Battuta.
Starting from Kochi, Kerala. Pai Dosa : Our favorite eat out in Kochi. More than 100 varieties of dosa. Highly recommended. We had one Volvo and one Salt and Pepper 🙂 .. Yummy !!!….. Unfortunately, we missed the lime juice as it was not ready …
Our travel map
Trivandrum –> Kochi –> Mumbai –> Elephanta Caves –> Aurangabad –>
Mumbai –> Bubaneshwar –> Puri –> Bubaneshwar –> Delhi –> Kochi –>
Trivandrum
The pearl opens out its shell …..One of the most amazing sunsets we have ever seen….One from the flight … Who says God is not there…. Spell-bounding visual… Sun retreating back into the horizon after the day’s majestic show …Such a prodigious display of warm colors …
Such a beautiful image of a Family… So divine… So lovely … Shiva .. Parvathi and Ganesha … The best blessing in this world is the best family
Meera, also known as Mira Bai, was a 16th-century Hindu mystic poet and devotee of Krishna. She is celebrated as a poet and has been claimed by the North Indian Hindu tradition of Bhakti saints.
Elephanta Caves
And we fight and kill in the name of them and their history… while they decay through ages being ignored and manipulated … Shot from Elephanta Caves
Elephanta caves are a network of sculpted caves located on Elephanta Island, or Gharapuri (literally “the city of caves”) in Mumbai Harbour, 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) to the east of the city of Mumbai in the Indian state ofMaharashtra. The island, located on an arm of the Arabian Sea, consists of two groups of caves—the first is a large group of five Hindu caves, the second, a smaller group of two Buddhist caves. The Hindu caves contain rock cut stone sculptures, representing the Shaiva Hindu sect, dedicated to the Lord Shiva
The engraved panel in the north end of the aisle is considered to be a unique sculpture, and shows Bhairava, or Virabhadra, a frightful form of Shiva. In the carved panel, Shiva’s consort is seen sitting next to him, looking terrified. A female attendant is next to him. The central figure, which is much ruined below the waist, is 3.5 m (11 ft) high and posed as if running. His headgear has a ruff on the back, a skull and cobra over the forehead, and the crescent high on the right. His facial expression is of intense anger discerned from his furrowed brow, swollen eyes, and tusks. The legs and five of the eight arms are broken, attributed to Portuguese vandalism. The smaller broken image Andhaka is seen below Bhairava’s image. It is interpreted that Shiva is spearing him with the front right hand, as conjectured by the spear seen hanging without any hold. Also seen is the backhand lifted up and holding an elephant’s skin as a cover; the elephant’s head, carved tusk, and trunk are seen hanging from the left hand. The second left hand depicts a snake coiled around it. The hand holds a bowl to collect the blood dripping from the slain Andhaka.
The panel to the east of the north portico is Shiva in a Yogic position called Yogisvara, Mahayogi, Dharmaraja and Lakulish.[16] Resembling a Buddha, Shiva is in a dilapidated condition with only two broken arms. Shiva is seated in padmasana yogic posture (cross-legged) on a lotus carried by two Nāgas. His crown is carved with details adorned by a crescent, a round frill at the back, and hair curls dropping on either side of the shoulders. His face is calm in meditation, his eyes half-closed. This represents Shiva in penance sitting amidst the Himalayan mountains after the death of his first wife Sati, who was later reborn as Parvati. He is surrounded by divinities in the sky and attendants below. Also seen is a plantain with three leaves already open and one opening, as well as a sunflower blossom. These are flanked by two attendants. Other figures discerned from a study of the broken images are: Vishnu riding Garuda on a plantain leaf; the Sun-god Surya riding a fully saddled horse (head missing); a saint with a rosary; two female figures in the sky draped up to their thighs; a faceless figure of the moon with a water container; three identical figures of a male flanked by two females; the skeleton of a sage; Brahma (without one arm) riding a swan; and Indra without his mount.
Bibi Ka Maqbara
No wonder if someone mistakes this for ‘ Taj Mahal’. But this is Bibi Ka Maqbara. Apart from some lonely visitors we were not able to see any tourists in the range of what we see in Taj Mahal. The architecture resembles so much of Taj Mahal that it has been called as ‘ Mini Tajmahal’. The construction is not done with much precision as that of Taj Mahal but still looks beautiful by its own means.
The Bibi Ka Maqbara (English:”Tomb of the Lady”) is a maqbara located in Aurangabad, Maharashtra, India. It was built by Azam Shah, son of Aurangzeb, in 1678 in memory of his mother, Dilras Banu Begum (posthumously known as Rabia-ud-Daurani).It bears a striking resemblance to the famous Taj Mahal, the mausoleum of his grandmother, Mumtaz Mahal. Aurangzeb was not very interested in architecture, though he had built the small, but elegant, Pearl Mosque at Delhi. The Bibi Ka Maqbara was the largest structure that he had to his credit.
The comparison to the Taj Mahal has often obscured its very own considerable charm.Due to the strong resemblance, it is also called the Dakkhani Taj (Taj of the Deccan).The Bibi Ka Maqbara is the principal monument of Aurangabad and its historic city. An inscription found on the main entrance door mentions that this mausoleum was designed and erected by Ata-ullah, an architect and Hanspat Rai, an engineer respectively. Ata-ullah was the son of Ustad Ahmad Lahauri, the principal designer of the Taj Mahal.
Ellora Caves
Ellora is one of the UNESCO’s World Heritage Site in India. The whole set of caves a carved out from the rocky mountains. Such an amazing piece of construction considering the period of time it is built. The caves are an excellent example of how far the Kings have gone to impress the Gods or imply their religious beliefs.
Ellora is an archaeological site 29 km (18 mi) north-west of the city of Aurangabad in the Indian state of Maharashtra, built by the Rashtrakuta dynasty (Brahmanical & Buddhist group of caves) and Yadav (Jain group of caves). Well-known for its monumental caves, Ellora is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The 34 “caves” are actually structures excavated out of the vertical face of the Charanandri hills.Hindu, Buddhist and Jain rock-cut temples and viharas and mathas were built between the 5th century and 10th century. The 17 Hindu (caves 13–29), 12 Buddhist (caves 1–12) and 5 Jain (caves 30–34) caves, built in proximity, demonstrate the religious harmony prevalent during this period of Indian history. It is a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India.
Ram , Sita and Lakshmanan .. Shot from Ellora caves
This pillar on the Kailasa temple is one hell of a wonder. Precise rock carvings, standing like tall bouncer overlooking the whole crowd, this pillar completes the majestic look of the temple. Such an amazing architecture… Shot from Kailashnatha Temple, Ellora
The Kailasa temple is one of the largest rock-cut ancient Hindu temples located in Ellora,Maharashtra, India. A megalith carved out of one single rock, it is considered one of the most remarkable cave temples in India because of its size, architecture and sculptural treatment.
The Kailasa temple (Cave 16) is one among the 34 cave temples and monasteries are known collectively as the Ellora Caves. Its construction is generally attributed to the 8th-century Rashtrakuta king Krishna I. The temple architecture shows traces of Pallava style.
We felt Ellora is almost on its last days. Most of the structures were worn out and ASI has also not given enough care to the architectural masterpiece. Not enough stalls to support tourism, no proper mode of transport to caves except a bus from late 90’s. All over Ellora deserve a lot more attention and funds but sadly authorities have turned their face away from these caves. Ellora in its all means a wonderful tourist spot, a great memento of India’s great culture and heritage…A must visit place in India for anyone who wants to know the ancient culture of our country …its amazing culture on its hay days …
Ajantha Caves
Ajantha caves and the paintings are one of the time-tested evidence which shows how strong Buddhism had it’s root on India. The Hinayana and Mahayana which are the two prominent Buddhist schools of that time. The place where Ajanta caves were built, is an absolute marvel. In the mid of the forest, with waterfall all around and a river right below the cave structure, my thoughts got beyond the limits when I imagined the scenery on its prime days…. The kings of that time had put so much effort in engraving these caves out on the rocks and making paintings which stood until this time. So much is the impact of Buddhism.
The above image is not shot by me . But see how majestic it looks,imagine a river on the horseshoe and waterfalls on the rock side. That’s what Ajantha looked like when it was built … Peace at its helm …..
Photographer : By Freakyyash – photo taken by Freakyyash, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3327472
He was sitting there like a young nomad enjoying the evening …. And I just clicked him…
Peace is my path… Love is my religion …
While Ellora was completely discarded by ASI even though it is being listed in UNESCO’s World Heritage Site, Ajanta was taken care of. Happy to that … Except the constant ‘ Guide Requests’, Ajantha is such an amazing place to see. Back in Ellora we will see the carved out rock structures and when we come to Ajanta, it’s the rock paintings which will keep us astounded. When we hear that the paintings lasted for nearly a millennium, the only wonder might be how these guys draw them in the first place and what has been used to draw it …
The above sculpture of Buddha can be seen at Cave 26 in Ajantha and one of the must-see feature in the entire Ajantha tour. Don’t ever miss Cave 26. The cave is well-lighted wth nice warm lights and really make them special.
One thing I noted on my trip is that the face of Buddha imparts a great sense of peace to my mind. All of a sudden we feel an urge to throw away the nasty ego and close our eyes… No wonder why all the kings and dynasties built these wonders for the followers fo Buddhism.
Whenever you enter the caves with paintings, you will be greeted by the employee/guides and they might tell you ‘ Tip as you wish’ for the explanation. But I would suggest saying ‘No’ to them at the start itself. Not many details can be gathered from them. And at the end ,you might need to pay them also.
The caves with paintings were maintained with cooling systems. They were a treat to eyes.The paintings depict stories from Indian mythologies and also the ones associated with Sri Buddha.
And we walked back , my watch sounded the alarm for 6 PM. On the way back we had a tea from the restaurant… With Cardamom and Ginger 🙂 . Maybe because we were tired due to the long journey of the day…. We started from Aurangabad by morning 7 am on the taxi .. Ellora and Ajantha in one day and then back to Jalgaon …that was our plan.. You too can do this but make sure you have a lot of energy for this …A taxi might cost you Rs4000/- in total…I would don’t look for the rates and select a big car like Toyota Innova for the journey because the roads are not that good. A Tata Indica won’t be good enough to keep your back and neck away from pain. It might be tough to find restaurants on the way as the route is kind of completely deserted. But the driver will be able to find you one and I would say the restaurant from where we had our lunch was awesome … It was a small one on the roadside but taste of the food was superb… We fell in love with the flavor of those dishes 🙂 …. And make sure you have enough water with you before going into Ellora and Ajantha as you will get dehydrated soon after vi two-three caves…
We got our train from Jalgaon station by night 9 .30PM…Another night in train 🙂 .. And the journey continues …
We reached Mumbai by morning. We went straight to the airport. Mumbai airport is a charm and has all the qualities of an international airport. The way the designers blended the airport interior design with Indian culture is absolutely stunning….. We got freshened up there 🙂 … All kudos to my dear wife…For me and my friend, getting freshened up in the airport was not much of a big deal but as a girl I expected it to be a tough ordeal for my wife but the traveller in her handled it smoothly 🙂 … Out flight to Bhubaneshwar was around 11.30 AM in the morning. We roamed around the airport for 2 hours …
Dosa from Airport … Cost for one Rs 300/- !!!!!….. That’s a whopping one !!!!….If you are eating from airport be ready to spend a fortune … Not at all suitable for a budget traveller …
Puri : Orissa
We landed on Bhubaneshwar airport by around 3 PM in the evening…For all the people who were traveling to Bhubaneshwar airport for the first time via flight… Don’t worry about the flight landing… You will be having some real terrific moments during your landing …The swings of your flight may make you go haywire…Don’t worry … It’s turf which plays the bad part… The runway was not that smooth…but as always ‘ Trust Your Pilot’…
From the airport,we went to our hotel… Perhaps during this trip, it was the first time we were staying in the hotel properly for a night … But our experience was not that nice … While checking in, I was asked to show my marriage certificate … Since I just back from the US, I never had one with me. Then I was told that a marriage photo will be fine… So I logged into net, downloaded one from my facebook album and shown to them… The reception guy then only allowed me to check in .. Totally absurd !!!!….. The worry is not over.. We went into our room. It looked good and neat…Opened the bathroom and there you go … A glass window right next to your bathtub without any curtains … When I told the hotel staff, they informed its like the same from the time the hotel was built … I was like what !!!!!!….And they arranged me another room upon my request…with one difference.. there was still a window on the side of the bathtub but with a curtain … I have no other way than staying in this room… But it was bad I would say ….Don’t think that we booked the room by looking cheap rates…No!! we booked the hotel by seeing the ratings and photos and both of them were complete manipulations… Only good thing was morning breakfast..food was good and tasty … But I will never recommend this hotel to anyone .. And the name of the hotel : The Presidency, Bhubaneshwar …
Puri Lingaraj Temple was the first on our list ….The temple is so famous for the Rath yatra… We took a cab from hotel to the temple. The temple architecture is something unique in nature to North India. You can’t see temples like this anywhere in South India. The temple is built in the Deula style that has four components namely, vimana ( a structure containing the sanctum),jagamohana (assembly hall), natamandira (festival hall) and bhoga-mandapa (hall of offerings), each increasing in the height to its predecessor. The temple complex has 50 other shrines and is enclosed by a large compound wall. The temple surroundings were not that great and we were welcomed with a prey look. One guy started taking us to the inside of the temple and showing around and ended up demanding Rs 101/- … Purely atrocious. So if you go to this temple, make sure that you are not falling into these pooja traps…I felt temple back in Kerala are more divine than anywhere else in the world. Here in Puri Jagannath temple we were afraid to go near any sub-deity for praying as every priest looked like a marketing guy… 😦 .. Sad affair … But the magnificent temple architecture made us awestruck… I would say this is a must visit place for any Indian…
The Lingaraja temple is the largest temple in Bhubaneswar. The central tower of the temple is 180 ft (55 m) tall. The temple represents the quintessence of the Kalinga Architecture and culminating the medieval stages of the architectural tradition at Bhubaneswar. James Ferugsson (1808–86), a noted critic and historian rated the temple as “one of the finest examples of purely Hindu temple in India”.
Saw the same photo model with Eiffel Tower on the background. Just tried the same 🙂
Not sure which temple is this. Since photography was banned inside Lingaraj temple, we were roaming around the area and found this one. Tried to give a surreal look to the image 🙂
That was it for the day … We came back to the hotel by around 8 :)…
Morning, our plan was to catch the train from Bhubaneshwar to Puri..Puri Jagannath Temple and Konark Sun temple were the prominent places on our list. The train got delayed by around 30 mins and our entire trip got delayed by an hour or so.
Puri Jagannath Temple
There were no photos of Puri Jagannath temple as photography was completely banned. When we reached the temple, again ‘prey the tourist’ policy from the locals and priests started. One of the priests joined along with us and started telling about Poojas and so on. This time, we were more cunning than him. We haven’t given him a single look and finally he left the show. It was really sad to see how the condition of Brahmins in north India has deteriorated over the course of decades and centuries. Now they are the most suffering group among the lot. I just thought how time makes stories upside down. 300 years back people were begging at Brahmins and they were the wealthiest and now , its the other way around 😦 … Sad but truth.
Puri Jagannath temple is famous for its Rath yatra. The most significant ritual associated with the Ratha-Yatra is the chhera pahara.” During the festival, the Gajapati King wears the outfit of a sweeper and sweeps all around the deities and chariots in the Chera Pahara (sweeping with water) ritual. The Gajapati King cleanses the road before the chariots with a gold-handled broom and sprinkles sandalwood water and powder with utmost devotion. As per the custom, although the Gajapati King has been considered the most exalted person in the Kalingan kingdom, he still renders the menial service to Jagannath. This ritual signified that under the lordship of Jagannath, there is no distinction between the powerful sovereign Gajapati King and the most humble devotee. This reminded me of Tripadi Danam by Marthanda Varma in my own Thiruvananthapuram.
The temple is regarded as the part of Char- Dam ( the four temple every person need to visit during his lifetime, the other three are Rameshwara, Dwaraka and Badrinath).Even though the icons of most Hindu deities that are worshiped are made out of stone or metal, the image of Jagannath is wooden. Every twelve or nineteen years these wooden figures are ceremoniously replaced by using sacred trees, that have to be carved as an exact replica. The reason behind this ceremonial tradition is the highly secret Navakalevara (‘New Body’ or ‘New Embodiment’) ceremony, an intricate set of rituals that accompany the renewal of the wooden statues. The temple is in the Deula architectural form, the same as we have seen in Lingaraj temple. The temple was heavily crowded and it was difficult for us to get Darshan. But somehow we managed to get Darshan.
When I saw a lot of food in and around the temple I got amused. Nowhere I have this much amount of food/prasadam on the temple premises. Later only I came to know that Puri Jagannath temple has the largest kitchen in the world. Tradition maintains that all food cooked in the temple kitchens are supervised by the Goddess Mahalakshmi, the empress of Srimandir herself. It is said that if the food prepared has any fault in it, a shadow dog appears near the temple kitchen. The temple cooks, or Mahasuaras, take this as a sign of displeasure of Mahalakshmi with the food, which is, then, promptly buried and a new batch cooked.All food is cooked following rules as prescribed by Hindu religious texts, the food cooked is pure vegetarian without using onions and garlic. Cooking is done only in earthen pots with water drawn from two special wells near the kitchen called Ganga and Yamuna. It was so tempting for me take a try on these foods, even my wife was saying the same but somehow the thought of a stomach collapse kept me away from it.
Couple of things I felt after visiting these temples is that
- They are some of the mightiest architectural wonders of India or perhaps in the world.
- Every tourist is considered as a martyr for a devotee scam I should say. Don’t fall for that. Stay from people who are walking beside you explaining about the temple.
- The divine factor or the peace factor which you expect is not there.
- Last but not the least, they are the standing monuments of one of the most advanced society ever lived in the face of the earth and no matter what, they make you awestruck
Konark Sun Temple
From Puri, we took a taxi to Konark Sun Temple, the last place in Odisha for us. This was the most amusing one in the list for me. It took nearly an hour and a half to reach Konark Sun temple from Puri. You can easily get a taxi for this. By around 4 pm we reached Konark.
There is a street which leads to the temple. On the sides, you can see vendors with all those mini versions of Konark wheel, hats and so on. We decided to take a walk around the streets to try some street photography. Also, we decided to hire a guide. Because understanding Konark Sun Temple was as important as seeing it. We got a guide for Rs 200/- for 2 hours. Not much of a high rate. I would highly recommend a guide for this because you will understand the structure and the rock carvings really well.
From the streets of Konark ……Popping out from the group!!!
Veera Vinayaka …Vetri Vinayaka… Sakthi Vinayaka…Perazhakaa !!!…..
The mighty Sun Temple
One view of the Sun Temple will make you speechless. That big the temple is !!!.. Phenomenal I would say… A must and must list on any traveller visiting India. No wonder it made to UNESCO’s world heritage list.
It is believed that the temple was built by kingNarasimhadeva I of Eastern Ganga Dynasty in 1255 AD. The temple complex is built in the same of a chariot with 24 wheels representing 24 hours of the day. That’s not it . The temple’s walls and pillars were carved with amazing stone works. There were 7 horses ( 4 on left and 3 right) which were designed to pull the chariot. The sculptures represent all levels of human life … from cradle to grave. he Konark temple is also known for its erotic sculptures of maithunas. You can see polygamy. monogamy, gay , lesbian all in the rock sculptures. I felt like all these forms of man-woman relationship might have originated from India and then spread across the world. We were not just the masters of civilization and technology 🙂 ….
As per the guide, the idol of Sun god inside the temple was floating in the air. This was done with three magnets placed on the corners and bottom of the sanctum. The magnets were so powerful that they interrupted the magnetic compass of the Portuguese ships travelling in the sea which is hardly 4kms. This made the Portuguese go haywire. They came to the temple and destroyed the floating set up. The idol has been taken to England. Not sure how much truth is there in this story but I saw the front entry doors of the temple has been sealed with concrete blocks. That means we can enjoy this beauty from outside only. I think the story is a local guide legend because the statue was never taken to the UK but was moved to Puri Jagannath Temple.
Three idols of Sun god are placed on three sides of the temple. The idols were carved out in greenstone which was supposed to be from South India. These idols represent three different faces of Sun. A morning face, which is calm and happy, A noon face, which is fierce and An evening face, which is tired.
There is an another temple on the backside of the main Sun Temple. It is believed to be the temple for Mayadevi who is the wife of Sun God.
The sad thing about Konark Sun Temple is that the temple is on it’s last days. The salty wind from the nearby sea is the main culprit here. Because of this, the sculptures fade out fastly. I saw a lot of plain blocks in the temple. They were the ones replaced recently.
There have been several proposed theories for the collapse of the main sanctum. The date of the collapse is also not certain.
The Kenduli copper plates of Narasimha IV (Saka 1305 or 1384 CE) states the temple to be in a perfect state. In the 16th century Ain-i-Akbari, Abul Fazl also mentions Konark being in a proper state. The account also mentions the cost of construction being 12 years of revenue.
The cause of the collapse is also placed on Kalapahad who invaded Odisha in 1568.
Local legend – stated by the guides is that, the collapse was caused by the removal of the strongly magnetized rod at the centre which was keeping the temple structure erect by Portuguese shipmen. The strong magnetic waves emanating from it were interfering with the ships’ compass and resulted in a few ship wrecks!
In 1627, the then Raja of Khurda had removed the sun idol from Konark and moved it to the Jagannath temple in Puri. James Fergusson (1808–1886) had the opinion that marshy foundation had caused the collapse.But, the structure has shown no sign of sinking into its foundation.[Fergusson, who visited the temple in 1837, recorded a corner of the main sanctum still standing. It also fell down in 1848 due to a strong gale. According to Percy Brown (1872–1955), the temple was not properly completed and so it collapsed.This contradicts earlier recorded accounts of the temple being in a proper state. In 1929, an analysis of a moss covered rock estimated the date of abandonment at around 1573. Other proposed causes include lightning and earthquake
The repair works have been going around for nearly 100 years. Its history traces back to 1800s.
In 1803, requests were made for conservations by the East India Marine Board, but the only removal of stones from the site was prohibited by the Governor General. As a result, a part of the main tower, which was still standing, collapsed in 1848.The then Raja of Khurda removed some stones and sculptures to use in a temple he was building in Puri. A few gateways and some sculptures were destroyed in the process.In 1838, after the depredation of the Raja of Khurda, Asiatic Society of Bengal requested conservation, but the requests were denied and only preventative of human-caused damages were guaranteed. The Raja was forbidden to remove any more stones.In 1859, Asiatic Society of Bengal proposed moving an architrave depicting the navagraha to the Indian Museum in Calcutta. The first attempt in 1867 was abandoned as the funds ran out.In 1894, thirteen sculptures were moved to the Indian Museum.In 1903 when a major excavation was attempted nearby, the then Lieutenant governor of Bengal, J. A. Baurdilon, ordered the temple to be sealed and filled with sand to prevent the collapse of the Jagamohana. In 1906, casuarina and punnang trees were planted facing the sea to buffer the site against sand-laden winds.In 1909, the Mayadevi temple was discovered while removing sand and debris.
The temple was granted World Heritage Site status by the UNESCO in 1984.
The dancers …..
The only one wheel among the 24 which remains intact without any destruction… Someone needs to stay beyond the time to tell the tale !!!!!….
See this to experience this !!!!… Truly magnificent
My beloved friend : Deepu who planned the whole trip .. Kudos Buddy 🙂 ….An avid history enthusiast.
Our Guide !!!….
On the way back, we stopped at the famous puri beach. Reminded me and wife about our beautiful evenings at Chennai Basant Nagar beach. We had ice creams to brush up our nostalgia.
Udayagiri & Khandagiri Caves
Udyagiri and Khandagiri caves were the last on our list. We thought of skipping it as they were the last on our schedule. But since we had two hours in the morning on the day we were planning to board the flights, we decided not to miss them. Took a cab and ride to Udayagiri & Khandagiri.
We decided to hire a guide as this was an off prime location and we were not aware of its history. I would say that was a smart move. The guide was really nice and was explaining everything in detail. He sounded knowledgeable. The tone of the guide was totally different from what we have seen in Konark. Back in Konark, the guy was implying things like a local legend but here this guy was not doing so. He was not trying to impart stories into us rather he mentioned about the probable chances.
The caves are situated on two adjacent hills, Udayagiri and Khandagiri, mentioned as Kumari Parvat in the Hathigumpha inscription. They have a number of finely and ornately carved caves. It is believed that most of these caves were carved out as residential blocks for Jain monks during the reign of King Kharavela. Udayagiri means “Sunrise Hill” and has 18 caves while Khandagiri has 15 caves.
The caves of Udayagiri and Khandagiri, called lena or leṇa in the inscriptions, were dug out mostly during the reign of Kharavela for the abode of Jaina ascetics. The most important of this group is Ranigumpha in Udayagiri which is a double storeyed monastery.
The Hathigumpha cave (“Elephant Cave”) has the Hathigumpha inscription, written by Raja Kharavela, the king of Kalinga inIndia, during the 2nd century BCE. The Hathigumpha inscription consists of seventeen lines incised in deep cut Brahmi letters on the overhanging brow of a natural cavern Hathigumpha on the south side of the Udayagiri hill. It faces the rock edicts ofAsoka at Dhauli, situated about six miles away.
She walked the whole two hills along with us to get some money …And she soulfully agreed when I asked her for a pic after giving some money … That face tells a lot many stories… tales with no preface and conclusion …
The Guide …..We won’t forget this guy’s sound. At one point of time, I thought how he is breathing. He was talking high pitched nonstop for hours.
Ashoka had a special weakness for Dhauli, where the battle was fought. The Daya river is said to have turned red with the blood of the many deceased after the battle, and enabled Ashoka to realize the magnitude of horror associated with war. He saw to it that Dhauli became an important centre of Buddhist activities. He built several chaityas, stupas and pillars there. He got abodes excavated for the recluse, instructions inscribed for officials, expounded the main principles of dandaniti for the public, provided special status to his new kingdom including the stupas at Dhauli.
On the top of the hill, a dazzling white peace pagoda has been built by the Japan Buddha Sangha and the Kalinga Nippon Buddha Sangha in the 1970s.
Being in some places on this much historical important invoked a soothing yet pride feeling on my mind… the pride feeling how much has gone in shaping the history of my homeland. No wonder why India is being called as a subcontinent … It’s not just about the geographic diversity but also about the cultural and historical diversities spread across centuries….
When we were back on the plane to my hometown, it was such a great feeling …. Something which is really unexplainable and connected to my love of history or perhaps it’s the wonderfulness in understanding how great my country is …but still I feel sad , on one side India is filled with all kind of historical wonders but on the other side, I saw barren lands under scorching sun with no agriculture … I saw priests running behind tourists for money … I saw a couple taking their lunch under the shade of the tree overlooking their barren land… I saw humpy bumpy roads connecting world heritage sites … I experienced something weird which I don’t want to mention it on my blog due to strict ethical reasons…. But still ,India is a country of wonders…. Ever enchanting wonders……
Note : This article contains excerpts from Wiki. I have included them to get a flow and insight into the sites we have visited.